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You've trusted your eyes your whole life, but visit Cambodia and you just may start doubting them. How else to explain the unthinkable splendour of the 9th- to 13th-century Khmer temples, the tropical islands with barely a beach hut in sight and the untold adventures lurking in northern forests?
Cambodia promises a rollercoaster of emotions and experiences to the intrepid traveller. Your heart will race at Angkor Wat, one of the world's greatest achievements, only to haltingly derail when faced with the impact of humankind's darkest moments. After two decades of war and isolation, only now is Cambodia truly starting to recover from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal 1975-79 rule.

Where to go
The ideal months to be in Cambodia are December and January, when humidity is bearable, temperatures are cooler and it's unlikely to rain. From early February temperatures start to rise until the killer month, April, when temperatures often exceed 40°C (104°F). Come May and June, the southwestern monsoon brings rain and high humidity, cooking up a sweat for all but the hardiest of visitors.
The wet season (May-Oct), though very soggy, can be a good time to visit Angkor, as the moats will be full and the foliage lush - but steer clear of the northeast regions during those months, as the going gets pretty tough when the tracks are waterlogged.
The country's biggest festival, Bon Om Tuk, is held in early November, and is well worth catching. Others you might like to plan around include the water festival in Phnom Penh, or Khmer New Year.

Weather
From December to April the climate in Cambodia is at its driest with abundant sunshine and temperatures often reaching 40ºC (104ºF) in April, the hottest month. The humid southwestern monsoon from May to October sees rain fall mostly in the afternoon, accounting for 70-80% of annual rainfall. The highest temperatures around this time average just above the 30ºC mark (around 88ºF).

Events
Chaul Chnam Chen (Lunar New Year) is celebrated by ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese in late January or early February. The Chaul Chnam (Khmer New Year) celebrations bring the country to a standstill for three days in mid-April - a fair amount of water and talcum powder gets thrown around at this time, so it's a lively but noncontemplative time to visit. Chat Preah Nengkal, the Royal Ploughing Festival, takes place near the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh in early May. The Khmer calendar's most important festival is Bon Om Tuk in early November, celebrating Jayavarman VII's great naval victory over the Chams in 1181 and the end of the wet season - it's a very busy time to visit Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Banks, ministries and embassies are closed during all public holidays

Festivals.
Public Holidays:January 1 - New Year's DayJanuary 7 - Victory Over the GenocideMarch 8 - Women's DayApril 13 - Khmer New YearMay 1 - Labour DayMay 1 - International Children's Day13-15 May - King Sihamoni's BirthdaySeptember 24 - Constitution DayOctober 23 - Paris Peace AccordsOctober 30 - King's BirthdayNovember 9 - Independence DayDecember 10 - Human Rights Day

Money &Cost
Cambodia's currency is the riel. Its second currency (some would say its first) is the US dollar, which is accepted everywhere and by everyone, though change may arrive in riel. Dollar bills with a small tear are unlikely to be accepted by Cambodians, so it's worth scrutinising the change you're given to make sure you don't have bad bills. In the west of the country, the Thai baht (B) is also commonplace. If three currencies seems a little excessive, perhaps it's because the Cambodians are making up for lost time: during the Pol Pot era, the country had no currency. The Khmer Rouge abolished money and blew up the National Bank building in Phnom Penh.
It can be difficult to change travellers' cheques outside Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Battambang and Kompong Cham. Cash advances on credit cards are available in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Battambang, but charges are high. Otherwise, there are now ATMs in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Battambang.
Tipping is not expected in Cambodia, but salaries are very low and any gratuities for good service will be gratefully accepted. Bargaining is the rule in markets, when hiring vehicles and sometimes even when taking a room, but you won't need to be as forceful as you would in Thailand or Vietnam.

Currency
Name: Riel
Symbol: CR
• Sample Price Guide
hotel room with air-con: US$ 8.00-20.00
restaurant meal: US$ 2.00-6.00
newspaper: CR 1200
Angkor temples entrance fee: US$ 20.00
Internet access per minute: US$ 0.50-1.50
Krama (scarf): CR 3000
litre of petrol: CR 3000
litre of water: CR 500-2000
large bottle of Angkor beer: US$ 1.50-2.50
noodle soup: CR 2000-4000
souvenir t-shirt: US$ 2.00

Getting There
Bangkok is the easiest place to pick up a flight to Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Flights to the capital also fly out of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City, Vientiane and Guangzhou. There are also budget airlines connecting Cambodia with Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. The major airport is 7km (4mi) west of Phnom Penh. You can catch a taxi to the centre relatively cheaply, and the even cheaper motos charge per passenger. Be prepared to pay a departure tax when you leave. The land route will be vastly improved when the road linking Phnom Penh with the Thai border at Poipet is upgraded, but there are no firm plans to improve the diabolical road to Siem Reap. A combination of boats and buses will eventually ferry you from Thailand's Trat Province to the coastal town of Krong Koh Kong. Buses and shared taxis will get you to Vietnam's entry point at Moc Bai. The land border with Laos opened briefly but has since closed.

Cambodia Overview